Thursday, July 19, 2012

Gentle Reader, It seems that I have been living in a Tiki World. I fell asleep in Tahiti and woke up in Phildelphia. Day three and I am either still disoriented or I had too much fun last night. I have been honored to be included in Anna's blog Boozeysnakes. Taylor and Anna were immediately missed upon our parting. Their company brightened what could have been an otherwise dark period of time for me. We shared immeasurably beautiful sunsets, sipped wine, ate foods, drank beer and laughed. If they are reading this, my email is stevegrube450@gmail.com. I so covet an Ardea beer coozy. My beer is warm and so wants to be cool. I stood outside my room excitedly waiting for Joni to appear. She had darkened her hair and I had lost weight. It's like we were both getting strange. She has found a video online of a cabbie defacating on the sidewalk in Philadelphia. It's good to be here. Zagat published a list of the seven coolest neighborhood drinking and eating establishments in the city; the night before the list was online we were at two and they were right.

Saturday, July 14, 2012

Gentle Reader, I was up at six, ate a light breakfast and headed for the high speed ferry to return to Tahiti. It was only a 20 min. ride but big waves and fun. Having ducked those bad boys in the Papeete Marina it was nice to be on the inside. There is a Le Armpit Airport Hotel and a Sofitel by Tiana Marina. I rolled into the Sofitel left the cab running and they were sold out. They called the Intercontinental next door and Voila, done deal. This is a pretty nice place. I get checked in right away and get upgraded to a panoramic garden view room. A quick shower and it's a hike to the Marina. I check with the usual suspects including a mechanic who did $11,000.00 worth of work and tells me he has not worked on an Amel in years nor does he know who Capt. Billy is. I decide to move on as opposed to arguing, anyone having met Capt. Billy remembers him. I visually inspect all dingy's and I think I can see Spirit Guide off in the distance. I need to get a ride on a dingy and see. Approaching strangers for a dingy ride even with seasoned cruisers is like telemarketing. Your case needs to be brief, strong and plausible. Quite frankly I have been worried about him since yesterday. He called my wife Joni and asked that I call him. Don't ask. Upon trying all day, all I got was a busy signal. I new his meds were at a critical level. I try to talk people into a potentially futile dingy ride and a previously met cruiser named Jamie pulls up to the dock with his girlfriend to have lunch. I ask him about Billy and he says he is a pain in the ass with a broken knee but, Ok. He takes me out, what a mensch. I still give him a fifty to have lunch with his girlfriend, it was the right thing to do for a variety of reasons. On the way out I tell him of being on the hard and who appears amongnst this floating festival but Capt. Billy, himself. I jump dingy's and we are strangely happy to see one another. I am flat out relieved. I needed to see he was alright myself before leaving. I pick up some stray clothing on Spirit Guide. I thought I left two shirts, there were six. I told him I would see him around tonight which of course I will, what could possibly go wrong? It is then off to Carrefour I go, a giant supermarket, to pick up a piece of luggage. A long walk back commences, leading me back to the hotel. I find the Tiki Bar for a drink(s) and lunch. I have a fresh sardine salad and a French Onion Soup. Happy Bastille Day! I am sitting poolside addressing you, my one reader. I feel genuinely relieved. Last night was a farewell dinner with Taylor and Anna, our best to date. A French sort of tapas extravaganza that was food porn eventually leading us to another restaurant. I miss those guys already. They turned a potentially dark episode for me in something truly fun. Thanks, dudes. If you think this adventure is over wait until after tonight; I am strongly considering a nap and guarding my loins.

Thursday, July 12, 2012

Gentle Reader, Upon the posting of my entry I received a nice email. It was basically wishing me well at the end of my adventure and greatly appreciated. Until I am back at home this suckers not over. Billy may have decided not to answer the phone call I made to him this morning for reasons only he could know. I was invited by other cruisers to hike to the next bay over, D' Opunaho to enjoy slack lining and they notified me that Billy had left. Viola! POOF......she's gone. Not so much as a Hiddy Ho! Either he is some how involved in a top secret military invisibility project or he is returning to Tahiti. I suspect Marina Tiana but as he owes me money who knows. Bon Voyage Capt. Billy (smiley face). Tommorow night is Pétanque night. The national sport and Bocci alla Francaise. Played for money I am supposed team up with Taylor and we will make our financial contribution to the islands underground economy. Friday is reputedly the wild night to be there. America, Fuck Yea!

Wednesday, July 11, 2012

Gentle Reader, My days have become a linear but curved passage taking me from the Bali Hai Club along the water, taking me past restaurants, shops and creeks terminating at a grocery store. The other direction takes me past residences, the police station (gendrmerie), the best pizza on the island and eventually the Kaveka Hotel and reasturant (the off duty warering hole of the gendarmerie). Ahead of me holes contain the quick dark movements of land crabs scurrying towards invisibility during both day and night. In the creeks leading from the mountains to the bay eels laze with a superiority; knowing they are sacred here and not eaten by humans. Once night falls a well informed traveller walks with a large rock to fend off apack of wild dogs. My trek takes me past a hut containing a man named Agee who cuts the grass here. He is a very large Polynesian with a warm heart and generous manner. His hut contains no running water or electricity. It is immaculate on the inside and outside. He has two bedrooms one on the second story and one on the ground floor. There is a bar inside, immaculate gardens where he grows fruits and vegtables. He has a private patio with outside gravity sun heated shower system, a table and a wood burning BBQ. Privacy fencing surronds his property. He has built this all on his own and I believe he started as a squatter. I asked him how he came to learn these skills and he answered that he prayed to God with out stretched hands and was soon after building like Noah, without his furry friends. I had been previously introduced on a trek with Taylor a fellow traveller on a small sailboat on the bay with his girlfriend Anna. We met for the first time at Tamas, a tattoo studio and one of two on the island that are very good. They gave me a large Hinano beer, (a local favorite) and Anna helped interpret my design ideas to the artist in French. As stated earlier my linear existence allows us to see each other reguarly as they transit in from the bay. I am a flat lander. My life is a series of decisions involving eating, beverages and a well timed nap. American food is almost impossible so one must make due with pâtés, fromage, and baguettes. A good California wine cannot be found. It's a daily struggle to survive in this environment. Last night I ate a Chinese restaurant called Jean Pierre. I ordered the pork with oyster sauce. The meat was entirely pork belly, fatty and delicious paired with a nice merlot. Most everyone is friendly and there is a bocci ball court just before the grocery. On Friday, Saturday and Sunday it is a party; music, beer, food and the every clanking of steel balls. This is a game of skill and as it is for money is taken very seriously. I talked with Billy today, as I am still acting as his personal secretary to the outside world; trying to conquer one his self made complications at a time. It's like pissing into a squall; there is just no way you are not going to get wet. I expect him to be here around dinner time, as I let it slip, that I had plans tonight. He may want to sail to Tahiti tommorrow. One day at a time. Returning with him will make my life, less convienent, less pleasant and more expensive; but then that's my problem.

Saturday, July 7, 2012

Gentle Reader, The challenges of Internet connectivity have greatly hampered my ability to get messages out. The good news is that I have over 70 journal entries outlining my adventures in detail. Nothing about this adventure has really gone as planned. Instead of exploring over 100 islands I have been satisfied with two, Tahiti and Moorea. I have decided to get off the boat for a variety of reasons and have made my base of operations the Club Bali Hai, a funky little hotel along the Baihe De Cook or Cook's Bay. I have made the decision to be vague with the blog as I have a voice via the Internet while others do not. Captain Billy blew out his knee and will need a replacement stateside and Spirit Guide will go oh the hard for repairs and storage. I will travel back to Tahiti with Billy for repairs and then fly home. A little cut on my thumb has turned into a staph infection even though I thought I had attended it properly. I have been seen by a physician and I am on a course of antibiotics and treatments. This is not an unusual occurance in the tropics and I have been warned to stay out of the ocean. I no longer have the desire to travel further as I am quite frankly adventured out. If there is a more beautiful place than Moorea, I cannot imagine it. The French, are well French, but the Polynesians are a glorious people, both warm, generous and rightly proud of their culture. I have learned lessons on this trip that were hard earned and thus have worth. There is nothing that is easy about sailing. Yet so many people have contributed their company and help with amazing generosity. They know who they are. This is and has been a truly remarkable adventure and will stay with me, in a good way, for the rest of my life. Without my loving wife, Joni none of this would have been possible. We plan on meeting in Philadelphia at our favorite Marriott and enjoying some good food and time, once again together. I am now looking forward to my return.

Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Gentle Reader, Two nights ago a very large squall hit our cay and it was the biggest Capt. Billy has ever seen. No one died and yes they could have. Sailboatss lost anchorages and crashed into each other some fled in blinding conditions and fewer boats were there in the morning as they had fled not to be seen again. If there are bigger out there and I am sure there are, I would like to take a pass. Moorea is breathtakingly beautiful. The Blue Lagoon was filmed here and upon a close approach it looks like the Island of Kong. My dear Joni had gasped when seeing a Hilton bill for an overnight stay. This is inexcusable as we use a Marriott rewards card. I got a bungalow for my self after a series of misadventures and was able to negotiate a half price stay. Joni hasn't even seem the dinner bill yet....Yikes. A case of good beer is about $70.00 U.S. I have been quoting Team America World Police on occasion here. "America, Fuck Yeah!" If some of you are wondering if I am changing, those who know me well may wish to return to their seats and buckle their seatbelts. To say this was a room does not do a Bunglow here justice. I had my own private patio with a small private pool, but I digress. There was a beautiful wall mounted HD flat screen and I had no interest in turning on. Creature comforts kick ass and I could have lived in the rainfall shower alone. I am truly jaded as I have my own shower on the Spirt Guide. Rainfall showers however, are the bomb. Don't worry, I can still be an asshole. A couple of nights ago there were some wild dog attacks reported via the coconut telegraph, i.e. via gossip. I like dogs but carry a high intensity flash light and a Ping putter just in case. Go after the leader without hesitation and all will leave, very Spartan, very effective. Walking past security to enter this compound is a Bob Hope moment. Golfers will get that one. I have made my temporary Hq. the Hilton Moorea, If your in the neighborhood stop by and say hey, ask for Steve. I expect we will be going back to Tahiti due to electrical issues. Marooroo Roa (thank you very much) SCrew.

Tuesday, June 19, 2012

Gentle Reader, It has been a long time since my last entry and for that I apologize. Thank you for your interest and patience. It has been a challenge to develop any kind of Internet connection. Let's do this in a non linear timeline. I am now in Tahiti sitting in a bar with wifi access. I have been working my ass off on Spirit Guide with repairs and trying to make her pretty for three days of parties beginning in two days, but I must digress. A month was spent in Ko Olina, Oahu and I had many an adventure culminating with a broken foot in two places and that story will have to wait for another time. Tonight is the first night of being without my walking cast. I new I did not know what I was doing when I started this adventure and our crossing proved me right. The Pacific for 2800 was many things of both beauty and terror and I am glad we are not recrossing. We sustained much damage and are, incurring tens thousands of dollars in repairs and limped into port with 50 liters of fuel, not gallons, fumes. This adventure has been beyond my imagination but certainly not boring. To anyone who knows me, I am an internet content junkie and have been completely unplugged for over three weeks. I have only met three Americans on one boat two of which were headed to the airport upon their arrival. One other looked like an older and less well fed Ray Liotta, spooky. He will be unamed but Billy thinks he banged his sister back in Seal Beach, CA. There seems to be a flawed mind in common with real sailors and I have been generously welcomed into their ranks. All are gypsies but their hands are out to be shaken but not in my pockets. It has been a long day and the Heiniken has taken my brain. Au Voir